GETTING THE DIRT Expert advice for the best cleansing results
Top skincare expert Susan Fox shares her top tips on effective cleansing with Exquisite.ie and what to avoid to get the best from your skincare routine...
Susan Fox is a beauty therapist and founder of the Eden Beauty Group based in Wicklow Town. With nearly 30 years in the beauty industry, covering beauty basics to the latest in technology, here are Susan’s top tips for getting the best from your beauty routine.
When I trained as a beauty therapist 30 years ago skincare was a relatively straight forward proposition. Once you cleansed and moisturised you were pretty much covered. Thankfully time and science have ensured that beauty has come a long way and the results of a good skincare routine can now almost stop the clock and ensure you look fantastic at any age. While technology and new advances work wonders, beauty in general can be confusing and a little intimidating.
With such an array of information, new products, tips and advice available I find my clients are more confused than ever.
So let’s get back to basics. What should you be doing daily to ensure your skin looks and feels fantastic? In my experience there are four steps:
This week we’ll focus on the importance of cleansing:
Double cleansing, mitts, warm cloths, wipes, creams, washes or lotions? Never have so many options been offered for something so simple. Women are wearing more make up than ever before, often to cover up bad skin. Layering your skin in thick make up daily along with a weekly application of false tan for good measure and you have a recipe for disaster if it is not removed correctly.
Cleansing is essential to remove makeup, dirt, grime and pollution we all encounter in our daily lives, if not removed correctly residue combines with sebum blocking pores and causing congestion and ultimately break outs.
I have never seen so many clients with stressed, sensitised and congested skin and a lot of theses issues can be put down to a poor cleansing routine.
First the bad news slapping a bit of water on your skin morning and evening is not removing anything. Most makeup is oil based and as anyone who has done Junior Cert chemistry can tell you water does not cut through or dissolve oil. You need a product that actually cuts through oil and sebum to remove it thoroughly. So which cleanser is the right cleanser for you?
DRY SKIN OR SENSITIVE SKIN
Cream cleansers tend to be more suitable for dry, sensitive or mature skin. They usually have hydrating ingredients and tend to be gentler than washes or gels.
Lifestyle is a big factor, I am a busy working mum who does not have time to faff around with warm cloths and separate eye make removers.
I always go for a multi function cream cleanser that removes both my eye makeup and cleanses my face usually while I am in the shower in the morning.
I love the Casmara range as most of their cleansers are multi functional. They are also paraben and alcohol free which means they do not strip the skin.
The Casmara 3 in 1 cleanser is a great all rounder. It contains green tea which is a powerful antioxidant helping to delay the ageing process of the skin. It also contains silk proteins which are super hydrating.
It is an cleanser, eye makeup remover and exfoliator in one, for just €20. What’s not to love? You can buy it on the Eden Beauty Group website HERE .
It is simple to use, massage onto damp skin and then wash off using cotton pads or a warm face cloth. It can also be used as an exfoliator by massaging it into dry skin with gauze (you can buy rolls cheaply in the pharmacy) or a dry face cloth.
TIP: I buy cheap soft tooth brushes in the supermarket and use them as skin scrub brushes as you can change them regularly and ensure you always have a clean one. They are also great for travelling.
COMBINATION OR OILY SKIN
Those of you with oily or problem skin should look at gel cleansers or washes. The lighter texture tends to appeal to those suffering from excessive oiliness.Just because you have acne prone skin doesn’t mean you need a harsh cleanser. While reducing oil can help with acne this is not always the case. You simply can’t wash or scrub away problems (a skin consultation with a skin specialist is the way to go).
You want a great cleansing effect which will not dry out the skin excessively as this can actually stimulate sebaceous glands and cause more sebum to be produced.
An ingredient list that includes glycolic or salicylic acid is always a great choice for oily skin as they exfoliate deeply preventing the buildup of dead skin cells and reducing sebum which prevents pores plugging. The Casmara Dermo purifying cleanser is an ideal choice.
It is a sebo regulator which will help balance the skin and reduce oiliness.
It also contains salicylic acid to stop plugging and blackhead build up but is alcohol and paraben free so it will not dry out or strip skin. At €19 it is affordable and ideal for oily or combination skinBUY HERE
WHAT TO AVOID
Personally I do not like cleansing mitts as how many of us will launder them after each use? Presuming you don’t then they are a breeding ground for bacteria, not conducive to cleaning anything.
My pet hate has got to be wipes. They are super drying and are usually full of chemicals and alcohol which strips the skin and they do not actually cleanse the skin particularly well so I am putting this as bluntly as I can DO NOT USE WIPES EVER!
CLEANSING, WHEN AND HOW OFTEN?
Everyone regardless of skin type or whether they wear makeup or not should cleanse with a good cleanser morning and evening. If you do not wear makeup once should be sufficient.
Makeup wearers should always double cleanse
Double cleansing is literally cleansing your face twice with the same cleanser. The first cleanse removes most of your makeup the second removes the rest and sebum, dead skin cells etc. If you do not remove all of your makeup you are simply rubbing your expensive serums or moisturisers into a layer of old makeup and dead skin making it very difficult for it to penetrate into your skin and do it’s job.
So there you have it. All that advice boils down to two things: Find the right cleanser for you and use use it morning and evening. Easy!
TIP: I find a lot of clients who suffer with breakouts around their ear lobes and under their chin are not rinsing off their cleanser or drying the area thoroughly. So next time you cleanse pay special attention to your neck and wash and dry thoroughly.